UK Female Mountaineering Pioneers

Though they have often been sidelined and overlooked in favour of stories focused on the exploits of their male counterparts, female mountaineers have played a critical role in the discipline’s history. Forced to struggle against a host of discriminatory societal norms to pursue their passion for high-altitude peaks and the isolated beauty of the mountains, their achievements rank among mountaineering’s greatest.

In this article, we take a look at the early female mountaineers who managed to make a name for themselves against all the odds, discuss the obstacles they had to overcome, and then examine their influence on the latest generation of female mountaineering icons.

Lucy Walker (1836-1919)

A true trailblazer and one of the first women in mountaineering to receive widespread public attention, Lucy Walker ignored all expectations and inspired generations of female climbers to take to the mountains. Most famous for being the first woman to scale the Matterhorn in 1871, Lucy Walker was active during a period in which the prevailing Victorian attitudes dictated that women should not participate in physically demanding activities at all. She also climbed in skirts that were heavy, restrictive and put her at a significant disadvantage. Still, this didn’t stop her from completing an estimated 98 expeditions over her lifetime and notching up more than a dozen alpine first female ascents.

Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894-1986)

Born in London at the close of the 19th Century, Dorothy Pilley Richards broke boundaries and rebelled against societal norms in many fields, ranging from journalism and politics to mountaineering. Learning to climb on the slopes of Eryri (Snowdonia) in her early 20s, Dorothy was a co-founder of the Pinnacle Club – an Eryri-based group established to promote climbing and mountaineering among women. It operates to this day, and has been enormously influential, helping to normalise female participation in mountaineering over the last century.

In 1925, she began a two-year self-funded climbing adventure that spanned the Canadian Rockies, the Selkirks and the American Rockies. Together with her husband, Ivor Richards, and climbing companions Joseph and Antoine Georges, Dorothy became internationally renowned for making the first ascent of the Dent Blanche in 1928. To learn more about Dorothy Pilley Richards, check out the excellent Climbing Days.

Nan Shepherd (1893-1981)

While not famous for first ascents, few female mountaineers have had such a lasting impact on how we think of and talk about UK mountains as Nan Shepherd. An enormously talented writer and poet, Nan spent most of her life exploring the Cairngorms and becoming incredibly intimate with the landscape. Often seen hillwalking and climbing in all kinds of conditions and throughout the year, Nan wrote about UK mountain landscapes in such an insightful and inspiring way, motivating large numbers of hillwalkers and nature writers in the process. Her best-known work The Living Mountain is the ideal place to start if you want to dive into Nan’s excellent writing.

Historical obstacles women faced in mountaineering

Women faced numerous obstacles that prevented many from enjoying mountaineering and made participation far more difficult for those women who did climb. These challenges included social and political norms, practical equipment considerations, and a lack of infrastructure and opportunity.

Social and cultural expectations

Mountaineering began to flourish at a time when women were expected to conform to a very narrow definition of femininity and the mountains were perceived as a test of masculinity. This kind of adventurous pursuit was not deemed womanly and those women who did participate were often criticised, ostracised and mocked. Unsurprisingly, many early female mountaineering pioneers were involved in the suffragette movement and the battle for women’s voting rights and greater equality.

Restrictions on clothing and equipment

Female mountaineers also had to contend with inadequate equipment and clothing that wasn’t suited to climbing. Most mountaineering equipment was designed for men, meaning it was often ill-sized and difficult to use. The fact that women also regularly climbed in cumbersome dresses held many back. Perhaps most famously, Felicité Carrel, after whom the Matterhorn’s Col Felicité is named, was forced to turn back as she made for the summit because her skirts ballooned when the wind strengthened, making it too dangerous to continue the ascent.

Lack of social infrastructure

Women also faced a severe lack of opportunity when it came to climbing clubs and social groups. The world-famous Alpine Club did not accept female members, so early pioneers set up their own clubs. The aforementioned Pinnacle Club was one such group, as was the Ladies’ Alpine Club, which eventually merged with the Alpine Club in 1975. A lack of clubs and other support mechanisms made it difficult for women to begin mountaineering.

Modern UK mountaineering legends

Mountaineering’s female pioneers paved the way for modern climbers and created the conditions in which later generations could go higher and further than ever before. Modern legends on the mountaineering scene include Alison Hargreaves (1962–1995), famous for becoming the first woman to solo climb the six great north faces of the Alps in a single season and reaching the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen. Bonita Norris (b. 1987) became the youngest woman to climb Everest at the age of 22, though this record has since been beaten by the then 19-year-old Leanna Shuttleworth. The highly respected Hazel Findlay is one of the world’s greatest contemporary climbers, having free-climbed El Capitán four times via four different routes.

Climb Snowdon continues a long tradition

Climb Snowdon is home to a few of our very own female mountaineering heroes. Co-founder of RAW Adventures, Kate Worthington has spent pretty much her entire life scrambling in the mountains and is a qualified Mountain Leader, Winter Mountain Leader and Fell/Trail Leader in Running Fitness. She’s also a bit of a speed demon – she currently holds the Fastest Known Time (FKT) for the Snowdonia Slate Trail. Kate’s joined on the team by local legend, all-round excellent organiser, and passionate mountaineer Katie Cannell and trail-running, triathlon-smashing, qualified Mountain Leader, Honesty Lewis.

At Climb Snowdon, we want to ensure women have plenty of opportunities to discover and build on their passion for the mountains. And we believe providing a supportive and inclusive atmosphere is central to making that happen. All our Climb Snowdon Guided Walks are led by an accredited mountain leader and are the perfect way to experience Eryri, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), and the surrounding area in the company of like-minded walkers. Check out upcoming dates and don’t hesitate to get in touch with the team if you have any questions.